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Winter-Proofing Your Home

As the winter months approach, it’s important to consider the effects of ice, snow and other elements on your home. Something as simple as caulking around windows, doors, trim, and gaps in siding can cut down on drafts and water infiltration. Putties are available for larger holes and exterior wall penetrations for plumbing and electrical lines.

It is recommended that asphalt driveways be sealed before the ground freezes. Otherwise, water may infiltrate small cracks, freeze, expand and cause greater damage. For larger cracks, a thick sealant in a caulking tube should be used.

Cracks in concrete, brick or block should also be filled or sealed to prevent further damage. This includes sidewalks, foundations, driveways, veneers, chimneys and chimney caps. Small cracks in concrete can be filled with a polyurethane caulk or a masonry sealer. Larger cracks may be filled with hydraulic cement. This is waterproof cement that will create a permanent bond. There are hydraulic cements available for coating concrete, such as a concrete cap on a chimney. This prevents water from being absorbed into the concrete and will reduce the chance of freezing and cracking.

Another common problem associated with winter in colder climates is ice damming. This situation can occur in several areas. Ice damming occurs where ice is allowed to build up and, under force, pushes against or under another area. Gutters are probably the most common place where this occurs. Snow melts from the roof and freezes in the gutter. As the ice mounds in the gutter, the ice may push under the shingles and onto the roof sheathing (plywood, OSB, etc.) and remain there until it melts. This can cause a leak in the ceiling or soffit overhang. If this condition is allowed to continue, rot can occur to the sheathing, frame, fascia and wooden soffit. There are preventative steps that can be taken.

Drip edge is probably the easiest and least expensive solution. F-Style drip edge is a metal strip that comes pre-bent in 10-12' sections. It goes under the shingles about 2 inches, overhangs the edge of the roof into the gutter about 3/4" and comes down over the fascia about 1inch and has a lip for a positive run off. This creates a seal to the edge of the roof and greatly reduces the chance.

 
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15400 Calhoun Dr., Suite 180
Rockville, MD 20855
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Dianne Kollar
301-529- 1070
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301-529-5200
jacque@homestolivein.com
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